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Two new studies researching a class of drugs called JAK inhibitors have shown that oral treatment results in significant hair regrowth in patients with alopecia areata, an autoimmune condition that causes non-scarring patches of localized hair loss. Currently there is no cure for alopecia areata, so the possibility of a safe, effective medication is welcome news for thousands of affected patients.

Background

Last year we wrote about how the two new FDA-approved drugs tofacitinib and ruxolitinib act as inhibitors of the family of enzymes called Janus kinase (JAK). ((Harel S, Higgins CA, Cerise JE, Dai Z, Chen JC, Clynes R, Christiano AM. Pharmacologic inhibition of JAK-STAT signaling promotes hair growth. Sci Adv. 2015 Oct; 1(9): e1500973.)) By inhibiting the JAK enzymes, the drugs disrupt intracellular communication to white blood cells, called “T lymphocytes,” and are thus useful in treating alopecia areata. The JAK inhibitors prevented the onset of the disease and reversed the condition, enabling hair to regrow in areas previously devoid of hair.

The 2015 study we referenced – led by renowned alopecia areata researcher Dr. Angela Christiano – showed that topical application of tofacitinib and ruxolitinib in mice resulted in the rapid transition of hair follicles from the telogen (resting) phase of the hair cycle to the anagen (growth) phase. The same study found that tofacitinib encouraged hair follicle development in clumped human dermal papilla (DP) cells, stem cells that are critical in the development of hair follicles. [1]

The Studies

The two new studies were published in September 2016 in the journal JCI Insight, a peer-reviewed journal dedicated to biomedical research.

Tofacitinib

The study of oral tofacitinib – by Crispin, Ko, et al – was a 2-center, open-label, single-arm trial; the first to systematically examine the efficacy of JAK inhibitors as a treatment for alopecia areata. ((Crispin MK, Ko J, Craiglow BG, Li S, Shankar G, Urban JR, Chen JC, Cerise JE, Jabbari A, Winge MG, Marinkovich MP, Christiano AM, Oro AE, King BA. Safety and efficacy of the JAK inhibitor tofacitinib citrate in patients with alopecia areata. JCI Insight. 2016;1(15):e89776. doi:10.1172/jci.insight.89776.)) In addition to studying alopecia areata (AA) patients with greater than 50% scalp hair loss, they tested the drug on patients with alopecia totalis (AT), which is the complete loss of scalp hair; alopecia universalis (AU), the loss of scalp and body hair; and ophiasis pattern alopecia areata, hair loss localized to the temporal and occipital scalp. After three months on 5mg tofacitinib citrate, 32% showed up to 50% improvement, and 32% showed greater than 50% improvement. When broken down by subtype of the condition, those with AA improved by 70% on average, those with ophiasis improved by 68%, AT by 11.8%, and AU by 10.5%. They found that following cessation of the treatment, all patients experienced a recurrence of hair loss after an average of 8.5 weeks. Additional trials are necessary to determine the optimal dosage regimen for providing the most long-lasting response.

Ruxolitinib

The study of ruxolitinib – by Mackay-Wiggan, Jabbari, et al – was an open-label clinical trial of 12 patients with moderate to severe alopecia areata. ((Mackay-Wiggan J, Jabbari A, Nguyen N, Cerise J, Clark C, Ulerio G, Furniss M, Vaughan R, Christiano AM, Clynes R. Oral ruxolitinib induces hair regrowth in patients with moderate-to-severe alopecia areata. JCI Insight. 2016;1(15):e89790. doi:10.1172/jci.insight.89790.)) The pilot study tested the use of 20mg oral ruxolitinib twice a day for three to six months; this was followed by three months of monitoring the patients without treatment. Despite the small sample size, the results were striking in that 75% of patients showed a strong response to the medication, with hair regrowth over 50%. After treatment, those who responded to the treatment exhibited a 92% reduction in hair loss. Seven of the nine responders achieved greater than 95% hair regrowth. After stopping treatment hair loss resumed; however, it did not reach the level of hair loss that was present before treatment. This proof-of-concept pilot study showed that ruxolitinib is a safe and effective in reversing the balding effects of alopecia areata.

Conclusion

After showing promise in previous research, scientists have now shown that JAK inhibitors have strong potential to cause substantial hair regrowth in people with alopecia areata; a condition that causes hair loss that can be socially awkward at best and cosmetically disfiguring in severe cases. More studies need to go forward in order to determine which of the two drugs – tofacitinib or ruxolitinib – will be the most effective treatment, and what the proper dosage is for long-term treatment. However, we are hopeful that a medication will be developed for broad use in treating alopecia areata patients.

The other major point of interest following the publication of the series of studies is the potential for JAK inhibitors to treat androgenetic alopecia, or common genetic hair loss. One area that is being discussed is the potential for JAK inhibitors, perhaps in the form of a topical treatment, to stimulate the transition of hair follicles from the resting phase to the growth phase of the hair cycle. Christiano’s research is examining the effects of JAK inhibitors on cultured dermal papilla (DP) spheres. If JAK inhibitors can be used to stimulate DP spheres to grow into mature hair follicles, it may enable hair multiplication techniques to become a viable treatment for common baldness.

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Hair follicle aging is driven by transepidermal elimination of stem cells via COL17A1 proteolysis
Researchers show how the normal hair cycle (left) is disrupted by DNA damage (center),
resulting in age-induced hair follicle miniaturization (right)

We have known for decades that the incidence of male pattern baldness increases with age. New research published in the February 2016 edition of the journal Science has shed light on why this is the case. Researchers examining the role of hair follicle stem cells (HFSC) in the hair growth cycle have found that accumulated DNA damage in these cells results in the depletion of a key signaling protein and the progressive miniaturization of the hair follicle (and eventual hair loss). ((Matsumura H, Mohri Y, Binh NT, et al. Hair follicle aging is driven by transepidermal elimination of stem cells via COL17A1 proteolysis. Science. 2016 Feb: Vol. 351, Issue 6273, p. 613.)) The study represents a breakthrough in our understanding of the cell aging process and could open new pathways for the treatment of not only hair loss but other age-related conditions as well.

Background: The Hair Growth Cycle

At any point in time, a hair follicle exists in one of three phases:

  • Anagen Phase – this is the “growth” phase in which the hair follicle is actively producing living hair. Anagen can last from two to seven years.
  • Catagen Phase – this is a short transitional phase in which hair growth stops, the middle of the follicle constricts, and the bottom of the follicle begins to form the “club.” The follicle also separates from the bloodstream. Catagen lasts two to three weeks.
  • Telogen Phase – this is the “resting” phase in which the clubbed hair detaches from the dermal papilla and is susceptible to falling out. Telogen lasts three to four months before hair follicle stem cells initiate a new anagen (growth) phase and the cycle repeats.

Stem Cells and the Hair Cycle

Normally, hair follicle stem cells (HFSC) perpetuate the hair cycle by initiating a new anagen (growth) phase after the telogen (resting) phase. But HFSC, like all cells, age over time. Included in this aging process is damage to DNA strands inside these cells due to spontaneous errors in DNA replication or those due to exposure to sunlight and other insults. While it has been well understood that hair follicle miniaturization occurs as a person ages and that damage to genetic material contributes to the process, the exact mechanism that ties cell aging to the disruption of the normal hair cycle was unknown. The recent study examines miniaturization from cell aging and distinguishes it from miniaturization caused by the effects of DHT.

Results of the Study

The key finding in this new research is that as hair follicle stem cells (HFSC) accumulate genetic damage over time, their store of a signaling protein called COL17A1 is depleted. The depletion of this key protein forces HFSC to differentiate into a common type of skin cell called a keratinocyte. By differentiating into keratinocytes, the population of HFSC gradually shrinks, there are fewer HFSC to initiate the anagen (growth) phase, and the telogen (resting) phase is extended. With a gradually longer telogen phase and shorter anagen phase, the follicle progressively miniaturizes. Eventually, the hair-producing follicle disappears leaving a bald scalp and the keratinocytes, which no longer serve a purpose in the hair growth cycle, are ejected from the skin.1 Click here to view the graphic that illustrates this process.

The authors of the study suggest that restoring COL17A1 levels, or halting their depletion, may prevent this aging-induced hair follicle miniaturization from occurring.1

With perhaps much broader significance, the study confirms the tight linkage between the instability of genetic material in stem cells (that can be due to environmental factors) and the shrinkage and functional decline seen in many organs as they age.

Conclusion

Progressive hair loss is a pervasive problem for males as they age. However, current treatments deal, exclusively, with hormone-induced miniaturization. The discovery of the mechanism behind age-induced miniaturization may result in a new avenue for the treatment of hair loss. More research into methods of boosting levels, or preventing the depletion, of COL17A1 may yield a hair loss therapy that targets this cause of hair loss.

Further, developing a better understanding of the cell aging process may open up new avenues of research into the causes of, and potential solutions to, the age-induced decline of major organs in the body.

Read more:

Image c/o Science

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New research published in the journal Developmental Cell has confirmed the importance of dermal sheath stem cells in maintaining the hair growth cycle. ((Rahmani W, et al. Hair Follicle Dermal Stem Cells Regenerate the Dermal Sheath, Repopulate the Dermal Papilla, and Modulate Hair Type. Dev Cell. 2014 Dec 8;31(5):543-58.)) These cells, located around the lower portion of growing follicles, form the basis of an experimental treatment, being developed by Replicel Life Sciences, Inc., to regenerate hair-producing follicles. If successful, the treatment will be a game-changer for the hair restoration industry.

Colony of self-renewing dermal sheath cellsColony of self-renewing dermal sheath cells

The study, published in December 2014, sought to confirm what had been indirect evidence of a type of stem cell residing in the dermal sheath (DS) that was said to replenish dermal papilla (DP) cells. The authors of the study suggest that they now have definitive evidence that new DP cells are derived from stem cells in the dermal sheath “cup” (DSC). This development clarifies the relationship between the DS and the DP and confirms that DSC cells play a critical role in hair follicle regeneration by repopulating the dermal papilla cells at the end of the telogen (resting) phase of the normal hair cycle.

Importance of the Dermal Sheath Cup Cells

The number of dermal papilla (DP) cells in a hair follicle has been found to be a determining factor as to when the anagen (growth) phase of the hair cycle is initiated. ((Chi W, Wu E, Morgan BA, et al. (2013). Dermal papilla cell number specifies hair size, shape and cycling and its reduction causes follicular decline. Development 140, 1676–1683.)) The gradual loss of DP cells over time results in a longer delay in the onset of the anagen phase; a longer telogen (resting) phase; and a hair follicle that shrivels and eventually disappears. This process, called miniaturization, plays out over multiple hair cycles and has been shown to be the primary contributor to androgenetic alopecia and eventual baldness. ((Randall VA. (2008). Androgens and hair growth. Dermatol. Ther. 21, 314–328.))

While dermal sheath cup (DSC) stem cells are known to be long-lived and self-renewing, it is not fully understood how they replicate or why the pool of DSC cells becomes depleted over time. We do know, however, that the gradual loss of DSC cells results in a failure to produce the necessary number of DP cells. And without enough DP cells to trigger the anagen phase, the follicle begins to miniaturize. It is clear that maintaining the population of DSC cells after each iteration of the hair cycle is very important in preserving and maintaining healthy and mature terminal hairs.

Replicel Reacts to the Study

The new data confirming the importance of the dermal sheath cup (DSC) cells was celebrated by researchers and executives at Replicel Life Sciences, Inc., who have been studying this issue for over a decade. Replicel is set to start phase II clinical trials of RCH-01, their proprietary treatment for androgenetic alopecia.

In the RCH-01 treatment, cloned DSC cells are injected into balding areas of the scalp where they are expected to reverse miniaturization and regenerate healthy, hair-producing follicles. Phase I trials of RCH-01, the results of which were published in 2012, showed that the treatment could produce promising results and that it was safe to administer. Six months after patients were treated with RCH-01, overall hair density increased by an average of 11.8% in ten patients out of 16. In two patients, overall hair density increased by more than 19%. There were no significant adverse safety events recorded. ((Lortkipanidze, N. Safety and Efficacy Study of Human Autologous Hair Follicle Cells to Treat Androgenetic Alopecia. In Clinicaltrials.gov. Retrieved July 26, 2012.)) Phase II clinical trials are set to begin in 2015, with data collection continuing for 39 months.

Through a 2013 agreement with Replicel, Japanese cosmetics giant Shiseido may introduce RCH-01 into the Asian market as early as 2018.

Image c/o Developmental Cell 31, 543–558, December 8, 2014 ª2014 Elsevier Inc.

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Japanese Researchers Bioengineer Hair Follicles from Stem Cells, Dermal PapillaeCredit: Tokyo University of Science

Japanese researchers have demonstrated that scientists can bioengineer viable, hair-producing follicles from epithelial stem cells and dermal papilla cells. Using these components, the team produced follicles that exhibit both the normal hair cycle and piloerection (the reflex contraction of a tiny muscle in the hair follicles which creates what is commonly referred to as “goose bumps”). The bioengineered follicles also developed the normal structures found within follicles and formed natural connections with skin tissues, muscle cells, and nerve cells.

The scientists used a breakthrough type of hair multiplication to achieve a functional bioengineered hair follicle. In hair multiplication, germinative cells are harvested non-surgically and then multiplied outside the body in a laboratory. These cells are then injected into the skin where they, ideally, grow into hair follicles. The Japanese research team takes this concept one step further by first combining the stem cells and dermal papillae in the laboratory to create a germ of the hair follicle. This germ is then implanted into the scalp where it grows into a viable hair follicle.

The study opens the door to treat common baldness (androgenetic alopecia) and a host of other medical conditions that can cause hair loss.

View the Hair Cloning section to read more on hair multiplication and hair cloning methods.

Reference:

Koh-ei Toyoshima, Kyosuke Asakawa, Naoko Ishibashi, Hiroshi Toki, Miho Ogawa, Tomoko Hasegawa, Tarou Irié, Tetsuhiko Tachikawa, Akio Sato, Akira Takeda, Takashi Tsuji. Fully functional hair follicle regeneration through the rearrangement of stem cells and their niches. Nature Communications, 2012; 3: 784 DOI: 10.1038/ncomms1784

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RepliCel Life Sciences; a company based in Vancouver, Canada; is investigating hair cloning techniques in order to develop a treatment for androgenetic alopecia, or common genetic hair loss.

Research conducted by the company’s scientific founders and lead scientists, Drs. Kevin McElwee and Rolf Hoffmann, has shown that a certain type of cell, called a dermal sheath cup cell, is integral in initiating the growth of mature hair follicles. ((McElwee KJ, Kissling S, Wenzel E, Huth A, Hoffmann R (2003) Cultured peribulbar dermal sheath cells can induce hair follicle development and contribute to the dermal sheath and dermal papilla. J Invest Dermatol 121: 1267–1275.)) This mechanism of follicle growth, when coupled with previous research on dermal papillae cells, is key to our understanding of hair loss and is a potential avenue for developing a treatment that could reverse hair loss.

In their 2003 study, “Cultured Peribulbar Dermal Sheath Cells Can Induce Hair Follicle Development and Contribute to the Dermal Sheath and Dermal Papilla,” the scientists found that the dermal sheath cup cells are the “reservoir” of stem cells that control both the hair growth cycle of a follicle and formation of new hair follicles.

These breakthrough findings led to RepliCel’s seeking patents for their proprietary process of isolating and preparing dermal sheath cup cells for the treatment of hair loss. Patents have been issued in Europe and Australia, and are currently pending in the US, Canada, and Japan.

In 2012, RepliCel is studying the safety and efficacy of hair regeneration from autologous dermal sheath cup cells. In the study, cells will be harvested from patients, replicated in a laboratory, and then injected into a balding area to determine if the treatment will stimulate the growth of new hair follicles in what was a bald area.

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Q: I have been reading various articles and forum postings and it would seem that a person utilizing Propecia might experience increased “shedding” of hairs (outside of the normal hair cycle) around the 12 week mark after a hair transplant and lasting around 2-4 weeks. The forum postings suggest that one will not only see the miniaturized hairs being lost, but also normal terminal hair in greater than expected levels. Does an explanation exist to explain this increase in shedding hairs? — B.T., Manhattan, NY

A: Our understanding is that finasteride only affects miniaturized hairs — i.e. hair affected by DHT — and that this is all that should be shed. Remember, however, that much of the thinning a bald person experiences is due to thousands of partially miniaturized hair, and these can look very much like a full terminal hair in its early stages.

See our page on Shedding After A Hair Transplant.

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Q: What does the hair transplantation process do to your existing hair? — R.V., London, UK

A: When we perform hair transplant surgery, we transplant into an area that is either bald or has some existing hair. The hair that is existing is undergoing a process called miniaturization. What this means is that the hairs are continuing to decrease in size – both in diameter and in length. When we perform a hair transplant, we don’t transplant around the existing miniaturized hair on your scalp, we transplant through it. And the reason why we do that is because the miniaturized hair, the fine hair that is being affected by DHT, is eventually going to disappear, so you don’t want there to be any gaps.

So the question is, does the hair transplant actually destroy the existing hair? The answer is that it doesn’t destroy, but it can “shock” it. In other words, creating recipient sites (that the grafts are placed into) will temporarily alter the local circulation of the scalp and this can cause some of the hair in the area to be shed. The reason why hair may be shed is that hair is naturally cyclical. In other words, hair is normally growing, shedding, and then regrowing again. When you stress the scalp, the growing hair may be shed prematurely, but then it regrows.

If you think about the process of electrolysis, it makes sense that you don’t damage follicles from making recipient sites during a hair transplant procedure. In electrolysis used to treat unwanted hair, you stick a needle in the follicle, and you turn on an electric current. And you burn it. And then what happens to the hair? It usually comes back and you need to do it a few more times, even though we are applying an electric current via a needle placed directly in the follicle. So it makes sense that by just inserting a fine needle – the tool commonly used to make a hair transplant site – into the skin, one would not destroy hair follicles. However, the cumulative effect of making hundreds or thousands of recipient sites does shock the follicles and, as a result, some may shed their hair.

It can occur with general anesthesia – when the scalp is not even touched – and it can occur with oral medications, from pregnancy, or after psychological stress. So if you have hair restoration surgery and there is shedding, and it takes six months to a year for the transplanted hair to grow in, during this time hair transplant patient will experience some thinning. Since miniaturized hair is going to eventually disappear anyway, some of the miniaturized hair that is shed may not return. But if it is healthy hair, and it is shed, it will grow back. And, of course, the transplanted hair will be growing in as well during this time.

I am often asked to describe how much can be expected to be shed. The answer is that it is an amount that is often noticeable by the patient, but not noticeable by anyone else.

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Q: After my hair transplant procedure I had some shock loss, and then after about 4 1/2 to 7 months I had tremendous growth — really thick. I was amazed actually. Now, at 8 months it has thinned again, quite a lot compared to the growth I had before. I just wondered if this was a normal growth pattern and whether further growth could be expected? — N.T., Brooklyn, NY

A: This is not the most common situation, but should not be a cause for concern. The newly transplanted hairs are initially synchronous when they first grow in — i.e. they tend to all grow in around the same time (with some variability). This is in contrast to normal hair, where every hair is on its own independent cycle. Sometimes the newly transplanted hair will shed at one time before the cycles of each hair become more varied asynchronous.

For continued discussion of this topic, visit our page on hair growth and the growth cycle. Or read posts in the topic of Growth after a Hair Transplant.

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Q: What are the possible obstacles that you see with hair cloning using the plucking technique? — D.E., Boston, MA

A: Plucked hair does not contain that much epithelial tissue, so we do not yet know what the success of the procedure will be. Plucked hairs will most likely grow into individual hair follicles that are not follicular units and therefore, will not have completely the natural (full) look of two and three hair grafts. This limitation may be circumvented, however, by placing several hairs in one recipient site. It is possible that the sebaceous gland may not fully develop, so the cloned hair may not have the full luster of a transplanted hair.

The most important concern is that, since the follicle is made, in part, by recipient cells that may be androgen sensitive, the plucked hair derived follicles may not be permanent. It is possible, that since all the components of a normal hair may not be present, the cloned hair may only survive for one hair cycle.

Since the ACell extracellular matrix is derived from porcine (pig) tissue, the procedure may not be appropriate if you are Kosher or allergic to pork. Of course, we do not know what other obstacles may arise since this technique is so new –- or even if the ones mentioned above will really be obstacles at all -– only time will tell.

Follow the latest in Hair Cloning Research

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Q: I started thinning and saw more hair in the tub. I began Rogaine and stopped shampooing every night and is seems that there is now more coming out every time I shower. What is going on? — E.U., Short Hills, NJ

A: Rogaine can cause shedding at the beginning of treatment (i.e. in the first 3 months) but this is expected as it causes some hair to begin a new cycle of shedding and re-growth. This means the medication is working.

Another reason for your apparent shedding is that the less you wash your hair, the more will be lost each time. Go back to shampooing every day and see what happens.

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Q: I had my first hair transplant of 1100 grafts five months ago. The hair has been growing in well and I am very satisfied with the progress, but the new growth appears to occur in different cycles. Some of the hair never fell out and started growing within weeks. At around three months, a lot more started to grow, and now there seems to be even more growth of new hair coming in its finer stages. Is it normal for transplanted hair to begin growing at different times? Why does some hair come in looking thick and other hair start off finer and then gradually thicken up? — E.R., Bushwick, N.Y.

A: You are describing accurately how hair grows after a hair transplant. After the hair restoration procedure, the transplanted stubble is shed and the hair goes into a dormant phase. Several months later, growth begins as fine, vellus hair that thickens over time. The hair usually does not have its original thickness right away.

Typically, growth occurs in waves so that initially some areas will have more hair than others. Over the course of a year the cycles will even out and the hair will thicken to its final diameter.

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Dr. Bernstein summarizes an article on stem cells that was published in the journal Nature:

This study demonstrates that after wounding the skin of an adult mouse, an embryonic-like change in the epidermal cells outside of the hair follicle stem cells can be induced to form new hair follicle stem cells. In other words, these cells originate from epidermal skin cells in the wound, but then are able take on the characteristics of hair follicle stem cells and actually produce hair. These regenerated hair follicles establish a stem cell population that can produce a hair shaft and continue through all stages of the follicular cycle. The research suggests that these regenerated hair follicles grow new hair through the introduction of Wnt proteins.

The technology, developed at the University of Pennsylvania School of Medicine, has been licensed by Follica Inc. a privately held medical device company.

Reference: “Hair Follicle Regeneration in Adult Mouse Skin After Wounding,” Ito, M., et al. Nature 447, 316-320, May 17, 2007

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Q: I am 26 and I have been diagnosed with Diffuse Unpatterned Alopecia (DUPA) and realize I am not a candidate for hair transplants. I have been on Propecia for about 9 months. There have been periods of increased shedding throughout and I am still shedding what seem to be mostly very fine, miniaturized hairs. Do you think this is the Propecia speeding up the hair cycle and pushing out the old fine hairs, or do you think this is an increase in the pace of my genetic balding? I know that your post states that the accelerated hair loss generally stops by the 6th month. Does DUPA have any effect on the timeframe? Also, I have read that Propecia is only effective for about 50% of patients with DUPA. Do you find that to be true, or have you found a different experience? — T.T., White Plains, N.Y.

A: It is hard to tell at 9 months whether it is shedding from the finasteride or that the medication is just not working. Since there is no way to tell, I would stay on the medication for 2 years for any possible shedding from the medication to have passed and to see if your hair loss actually stops.

Since the natural history of DUPA is so unpredictable, I would give it the full two years rather than the 1-year trial the company recommends. There is no real scientific data to support this recommendation, however.

Please take heart in the fact that people with DUPA often look great (even without any hair transplants) if they keep their hair very short, since they never develop that cosmetically unappealing wreath of hair around the back and sides that is normally associated with extensive balding.

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Q: Are there any side effects to the laser comb?

A: There can be an early temporary hair shedding in some patients. This is felt to be due to an acceleration of the hair cycle and is probably a mechanism similar to the one that causes early shedding when using Rogaine (Minoxidil) or Propecia (Finasteride).

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Q: I know that both Aderans and Intercytex are doing research with cloning hair. Is there any difference in their approaches?

A: Aderans is using the “two-cell” approach. They feel that the best way to produce viable hair follicles is to use a combination of inducer cells and responder cells. Each would be multiplied separately and then injected together into the skin. The inducer cells are follicular fibroblasts and lie at the base of the hair follicle. The responder cells are keratinocytes. They feel that the combination of cells will have the best chance of producing clinically useful hair.

Intercytex prefers a one-cell approach. Their researchers feel that when the cultured inducer fibroblasts are injected into the skin there will be enough existing cells in the skin to produce a cosmetically viable hair. In their experimentation, Intercytex uses a new animal model, termed the “flap graft” model, that involves the implantation of cultured dermal papilla cells with keratinocytes placed under a flap on the back of hairless mice. Later the flap is exteriorized (turned over), allowing the hair to grow normally. Exactly how this will be applied to clinical use in humans is not clear.

A completely different view is held Dr. Ralf Paus at the University of Luebeck in Germany. He feels that there are already enough stem cells in the bald scalp and that the key to hair re-growth is to target key elements in the hair cycle. He feels that topically applied inhibitors of catagen (the resting phase of the hair cycle), exogen (the formation of an empty hair follicle), or inhibitors of the terminal-to-vellus transformation (the process of a hair shrinking in size under the influence of DHT and referred to as miniaturization) will the most effective way to go.

Finasteride and dutasteride are drugs that work in this way, but are clearly not very effective in stimulating new growth. He also feels that an anagen inducer, along the lines of a minoxidil-type medication has a better chance of success then the stem cell targeting strategies described above. In these cases one would, in a sense, rejuvenate dormant hair follicles rather than induce new ones to grow.

Read about Hair Cloning Methods

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Hair transplant surgeon Robert M. Bernstein M.D. was recently interviewed on the National Public Radio program The People’s Pharmacy. Invited to speak about hair loss, Dr. Bernstein offered insights about the causes of hereditary baldness and it’s solutions, including hair transplantation.

The show was entitled “Dealing with Hair Loss” and addressed issues such as the importance of hair to our sense of well being.

The full hour radio interview was filled with informative facts about male pattern baldness, cultural attitudes toward hair loss and surgical hair restoration. For example, Dr. Bernstein was asked about his pioneering work in follicular unit hair transplantation and host of other questions ranging from the causes of hair loss to the psychological effects of balding. Here is one exchange from the interview:

Moderator: How one can tell the difference between hair loss from hormonal imbalances and common baldness?

Dr. Bernstein: Measuring hormone levels alone, although important for medical management, does not necessarily reveal whether the cause of the hair loss is actually hormone related or is genetic. The diagnosis is made by examining the scalp and looking at the hair under close magnification using an instrument called a “Densitometer.” If the hair shafts are of different calibers, this is relatively diagnostic of female patterned genetic hair loss and in this case hormone levels are often normal. Hormonal changes or imbalances, on the other hand, may cause alterations in hair texture (such as in thyroid disease) or a generalized shedding that can occur after childbirth (called telogen effluvium). In telogen effluvium, the hair can l actually fall out in clumps – you can literally get handfuls of hair, but the hair often returns over time. In genetic hair loss, however, it is not a question of the hair falling out any faster, but the hair being replaced with thinner, finer hair in each hair cycle, until the hair gradually disappears.

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Q: What is “shock fall out”? – D.B., Chappaqua, N.Y.

A: Shedding after a hair transplant is also referred to by the very ominous sounding term “shock fall out.” The correct medical term is “effluvium” which literally means shedding. It is usually the miniaturized hair (i.e. the hair that is at the end of its lifespan due to genetic balding) that is most likely to be shed. Less likely, some healthy hair will be shed, but this should re-grow.

Interestingly, if transplants are spaced less than one year apart, one often notices some shedding of the hair from the first transplant, but this hair grows back completely. For most patients, effluvium is not a major issue and should not be a cause for concern.

Typically, when shedding occurs, a patient looks a little thinner during the several month period following the transplant, before the transplanted hair has started to grow. The thinning is often more noticeable to the patient than to others. Shedding is generally noted as a thinning, rather than of “masses of hair falling out,” as the term “shock fall out” erroneously suggests.

In general, the more miniaturization one has and the more rapid the hair loss, the more likely shedding will be from the hair restoration surgery. Young, actively balding patients would be at the greatest risk. Older patients with stable hair loss would have the least risk. In either situation, since miniaturized hair is eventually going to be lost, the effluvium has no long-term effect on the outcome of the procedure.

It is important to differentiate the phenomena described above from shedding of the hair in the graft. This shedding is an almost universal characteristic of a hair transplant and occurs because during a hair transplant a graft is temporarily stripped of its blood supply. As a response to this insult, the graft sheds its hair. This shedding is generally noted beginning a week following the procedure and can continue for up to six weeks. A very small percentage of patients do not shed and the transplanted hair continues to grow. In others, the transplanted hair remains on the scalp for months until a new hair pushes it out. Whether a patient sheds or not has no bearing on the outcome of the hair restoration.

There are a number of ways to minimize the effects of post-operative shedding: the first is using medication, the second is timing the transplant properly, and the third is performing a procedure using a sufficient number of grafts.

• Medication

Finasteride 1mg reverses or halts the miniaturization process in many individuals and is thus the logical way to decrease the risk of shedding following a transplant. Although many physicians have had the clinical impression that this assumption is correct, there has been no controlled studies to date that prove this.

• Timing and the size of the transplant

It is important to wait until a patient is ready to have a transplant, and then to perform one of sufficient size so that if there is some shedding, the procedure will more than compensate for it – and thus be worthwhile. A problem that patients often run into is that they present to their doctor with early hair loss but with a significant amount of miniaturization. The doctor performs a small procedure and it does not even compensate either for potential shedding or for progression of the hair loss. The result is that the patient is thinner (or more bald) than he was before the procedure. The doctor rarely blames the problem on the fact that the procedure was too small or that the miniaturization was not taken into account, but only that the patient continued to bald. The better solution is to treat early hair loss with medication, but once you make a decision to begin surgery, have a procedure large enough to make a significant cosmetic improvement.

• Performing the procedure using a sufficient number of grafts

As a final point, it is a fallacy that some doctors’ techniques are so impeccable that they can avoid effluvium or those “small” procedures will avoid shedding. Of course, bad techniques and rough handling will maximize effluvium, but effluvium is what hair naturally does when the scalp is stressed and it is stressed during a transplant from the anesthetic mixture and the recipient site creation. It is important to note that it cannot be totally prevented. Despite claims to the contrary, Follicular Unit Extraction has no bearing on this process as it is a harvesting rather than a placing technique.

In sum, the best way to deal with effluvium is:

  • Treat with Finasteride — the active chemical in the hair loss drug Propecia — when hair loss is early
  • Perform a hair transplant only when indicated
  • Perform a hair transplant with skill and using a sufficient number of grafts
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Q: When a donor strip is taken out during a hair transplant and separated under the microscope, you can read on the internet that there is a wastage of grafts (about 15%), because of those unseen telogen hairs. What do you think about that and how does it affect the hair restoration? — T.B. Baldwin, New York

A: The Telogen phase of the hair cycle is about 3 months long and about 12% of follicles are in this phase at any one time. It is speculated that the follicles may be empty for perhaps 1/2 that time (this number may vary significantly between people). Therefore, approximately 6% of the hair follicles may be in telogen at any one time.

On average about 15% of the follicular units are 1-hair units (but this also may very greatly between patients). If 6% of all follicles are “empty” telogen follicles, then there should be .15 x .06 = .009 or about 1% of the patient’s 1-hair follicular units in the empty telogen phase that can’t be identified and will be missed on dissection.

The 1% isn’t very large. However, also consider that the remaining 5% of the empty follicles are associated with larger follicular units (i.e. those with 2-4 hairs). If these follicular unit grafts are closely trimmed, as is the practice with very dense packing, a much more significant number of follicles are at risk of being lost. With chubby follicular unit grafts (i.e., where the microscopic dissection leaves a protective sheath of tissue around the follicles) the risk should be closer to the 1%.

The lesson for hair transplantation is that over-trimming of grafts, for the sake of very dense packing, may waste telogen hairs as well as place the grafts at an unnecessary risk of mechanical trauma, drying and warming.

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Dr. Bernstein summarizes an article in the Journal of the National Cancer Institute:

Curis, Inc., a drug development company, has published data showing the effectiveness of a proprietary Hedgehog pathway activator to stimulate hair growth in adult mice. The study shows that a topically applied small molecule agonist of the Hedgehog signaling pathway can stimulate hair follicles to pass from the resting stage to the growth stage of the hair cycle. The Hedgehog agonist produces no other noticeable short or long-term changes in the skin of the mice.

This study also demonstrated that the Hedgehog agonist is active in human scalp in vitro as measured by Hedgehog pathway gene expression. The results suggest that topical application of a Hedgehog agonist could be effective in treating hair loss conditions, including male and female pattern genetic hair loss.

Preliminary results were presented at the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) in February 2005. This work was based on a study in 2001 by Sato et. Al. who showed that the Sonic hedgehog gene is involved in the initiation of hair growth in mice.

Reference: Sato N., Leopold PL, Crystal, RG. Effect of Adenovirus-Mediated Expression of Sonic Hedgehog Gene on Hair Regrowth in Mice With Chemotherapy-Induced Alopecia. Journal of the National Cancer Institute, 2001, Vol. 93, No. 24.

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